Monthly Archives: August 2011
hip girth
Look at measurements, too.
Measured at the widest part of your hips.
deutsch: Hüftumfang
español: circunferencia de las posaderas
française: tour au niveau de la hanche
italiano: circonferenza dei fianchi
hem
deutsch: Saum
español: dobladillo/bajo
française: bas (de jupe, veston, manteau etc.)
italiano: fondo (di un indumento)/orlo(di fondo)
side seam
deutsch: Seitennaht
español: costura lateral
française: couture côté
italiano: cucitura laterale
seam allowance
distance from seam to border
since you can’t sew right at the edge of the pattern you need some more material to sew on, those 0.7cm-4cm are your seam allowance
deutsch: Nahtzugabe (von der Nahtlinie bis zur Nähgutkante)
español: margen de la costura
francaise: relarge de la couture (jusqu’au bord)
italiano: aggiunta della cucitura (dall’impuntura fino al bordo)
waistband
a waistband is the upper ending part of any skirt or pants, often sewn on, can be at the waist or your hips, matters what kind you prefer to wear.
deutsch: Bund (angesetzt)
español: cintura/pretina (aplicada)
francaise: ceinture (rapportée, comme partie fixe d’un vêtement)
italiano: cintura (rimessa, cucita a livello della vita)
secure seam
Securing your seam means that you do some stitches back and forth, this way the endings of the seam doesn’t undo themselves.
you can see that there are more stitches at the ending
thread line/grain line
thread line or grain line is any line thats parallel to the selvages (edges of width of fabric) and in patterns normally drawn as an arrow. Please be sure to put that arrow really parallel to the selvages, because only this way you can be sure it will fit and look as you want it to be.
deutsch: fadenlauf
español: recorrido del hilo
francaise: parcours du fil
italiano: corsa de filo
fabric crease/fold line
the fabric crease is where the fabric is folded, when you put selvage on selvage (selvage is the edge of the fabric’s width, not length)
deutsch: Stoffbruch
español: pliegue del tejido
francaise: cassure de tissu
italiano: spezzatura del tessuto
Pattern
a pattern is the forms and pieces you need to sew a garment
deutsch: Schnittmuster
español: patrón
francaise: patron
italiano: cartamodello
your measurements
1 height: stand straight, from head to ground
2 inside leg/inseam: straight leg, inner thigh to ground
3 arm length: elbow bend in a right angle, shoulder cap to sleeve length/wrist
4 chest/bust: find the point with the biggest girth
5 waist: point of smallest girth, above the belly button (remember you still wanna be able to breath in your cloth, so theres no point in holding your breath while taking your measurements)
6 hip: find the point on the biggest girth
of course there are a lot more measurements you might need for something you wanna sew, but those are the main ones.
all the best
your TailorFairy
Sewing Threads
So that is what my collection looks like.
But don’t worry, you best start with black and white and buy a fitting thread to any fabric you buy and soon your collection is probably bigger then mine.
I have very good experiences with the polyester threads and they aren’t very expensive, but if you prefer natural materials there are also threads made of cotton or even silk. Try around what you prefer to work with.
All the best
Your TailorFairy
Scissors
of course you don’t need
that many scissors
But you should have 3 different scissors:
-Paper Shears with which you only cut paper
-Tailor Shears with which you only cut fabrics
-Embroidery Scissors or any other small and pointy for little cuts in thesewing process
Its really important, that you decide from the start, what you want to cut with which scissors, because if you cut paper as well as fabric the blades will get blunt very fast. You can see the ribbons I put on them? Everything with a black ribbon is only for fabrics, white ribbon means paper shears.
So if you want to, you can mark them, too, but be sure not to mix them.
All the best
Your TailorFairy
