Heyhey,

so with the sleeves the jacket looks pretty finished and with the finished lining we are down to 2 last parts that need to get connected (next week) I really like my jacket already. Even though I hate sewing this typical lining fabric… its so slippery and unforgiving. But I love jackets and I want to wear it and look nice so it needs a lining, and if I want to wear it not only above tops but also sweaters it needs a lining like that…. so, pulling myself together and forcing myself to sewing lining 😉 but first: sleeves!

so I first I had troubles with the size of the sleeves… its normal the sleeve is a little bigger then the armhole but my leather isn’t stretchy at all, because of that the sleeves were to big for the armhole, so I pinned the sleeves right sides together, but don’t cut material to hasty… theres always some ease in the sleeve and normally it fits in just well if you divide the additional ease equally over the top half of the armhole

and drew a new line 1 cm down from the original edge

cut it

see how it still is a little to big?

I cut the leftover of the sleeves I already pinned in and used it to cut the other sleeves the same. be careful that you pin your sleeves to the bodice in the right way… the marks normally help prevent that, but better control again, that the back of the sleeve gets attached to the back of the bodice.

then sew it, carefully so you don’t have folds like me and need to undo parts of the seam, those seam allowances don’t need to be ironed apart, just iron the seam and let the seam allowances fall the way they want

so the outer jacket looks pretty finished 🙂

now you can start with the lining (my least favorite part as I said, well I survived), pin the front parts and sleeves parts together and the fold at the back part

at the sleeves stop a little before the marking for the slit and secure your seam, as you should do at all seam endings and beginnings

at the back fold sew some cm at both ends

then iron the seam allowances apart

 

also at the open parts for the slit

and iron the fold in the back to one side

now pin side seams and shoulder seams

sew them and iron the seam allowances apart

now pin the sleeves in, again carfully that front and back are right… here it doesn’t matter if the sleeve is to big just do a fold at the shoulder, it gives you space to move in the jacket and gives ease to the lining seams so they wont rip to easy

pin both sleeves in, I sew them on the bodice, but my teachers in fashion school always told me to sew on the sleeves… you should try which way works for you better

lining is finished, too.

So all thats left to do for next week: put the lining into the jacket, don’t get fooled that is a tricky part, I will take a lot of pictures and hopefully show you, its tricky but not difficult, if you know what to do.

Stay tuned!

keep sewing and smiling

your TailorFairy