Jacket Part5: Zipper, Cuffs and collar

Heyhey,

thank you all for your votes which zipper I should use, as most of you said, I put the green one in and it really starts looking like a jacket 🙂 just look at the last picture 😉

start with your sleeves and a really wide stitch… and only this time no securing the end, but keep long threads

to pull it together, ruffle it to the right size, try to get the ruffles equally over the sleeves

and pin the cuffs to it, remember you have some underlap, and remember to do that underlap to the smaller sleeve part… both sleeves need to be mirroring each other (thats one of my favorite mistakes that both arms are the same… you should see some old blouses I sewed)

after sewing that  fold the cuff down and then at the middle up again, and pin the underlap and the side

sew it and cut the seam allowance at the corner and turn the right side out… sorry for the blurry pic

now it should look like that

next up is the zipper, pin both side split to each side of the centre front

and sew with wide stitches again, just to keep it in place better then with just pins

remember you need a seam allowance at the end of the waistband

control the zipper is placed right

especially if you have a seam in there, make sure it looks even

next pin the other waistband to the facing and the facings to the back-facing

sewn them together and iron the seam allowances apart

at the waistband cut the seam allowance in at the end of the connecting seam

now pin the facings to the bodice

and sew all around it, leave the hole open for the collar, just sew from corner to corner

next pin the collar in between those layers, since my fabrics are rather thin I can do it with one seam… if yours are thicker you should sew the one side of the collar to the facings first and the back side of the collar to the bodice, so you can iron the seam allowances apart and wont have such a thick layering in your neck

cut the seam allowances short at corner and cut in at curves, so you can turn the right side out, and the iron it all

 

so this is what my jacket looks for now, for the pictures I pinned the sleeves to the bodice.

Next week I will sew the sleeves in and sew the lining, if you have any questions to the sewing process until this point please ask, this way I can improve my explanations.

 

keep sewing and smiling

 

your TailorFairy 

 

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