winter coat part2: darts, pockets and first seams


my coat starts looking like a coat and my white pants have brown hairs allover them;) and the brown hairs are also on my table and sewing machine and everywhere… but thats what you have to expect when working with loden, after all thats like felt and the fibers are loosely connected 😉 well soon all loose fibers will be on my pants and the next pants are safe! 🙂

Well heres about my darts and the pockets and the seams of the bodice 😉 

first off, I needed to mark some points, inside the part (at the seam allowance I already cut in at all marking points) this time I used a thicker thread, I pulled through right at the marking

knots on both ends and the cut in the middle when taking both part apart

now I drew some lines on the wrong side to make the later pocket and the dart more visible

fold the edging for the pocket in the middle, right side inside, and pin the short ends

pin the darts and sew them (always remember to secure your seams at beginning and end), also sew the pocket edging

turn the pocket edging around

pin the edging to the marked line on the right side, fold facing the hem  and sew it

then put the pocket part right next to it and sew a shorter line parallel above the other

then cut in between both lines but stop 1 cm before the end of the shorter line and then do 2 short cuts to the ends of the seams, turn the pocket through to the wrong side and fold the edging up

now cut 2 more pocket parts out of the lining, 1 cm shorter then the ones you cut of the coat fabric

pin that lining parts to the seam allowance of the edging and sew close to the original seam

sew the seam allowance down, close to the seam of the edging

then pin both pockets parts to each other and sew them

now pin the edging up

and sew close to the edges, this way the slit for the pocket is covered 😉

now pin the finished front part to the side-back parts, which you pin the centre back part, sew all seams and iron them apart, also iron and sew your darts down, and iron your pockets if they are a little crooked

now pin your shoulder seams and sew them

and it starts looking like a coat! 🙂

Next week: cape and starting with the lining, so stay tuned!

If you have any questions about this part, don’t be hesitant to ask. How’s your coat coming along?

keep sewing and smiling

your Tailorfairy





      • I looked that pattern up, that is really a difficult pocket. Sadly this week I am having stress, but I could do another tutorial for a pocket like this next week. Would that work for you? Do you have any special problems or is it a problem with the whole pocket area?

I love to read your comments

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.