summer long-sleeve

so, I actually made this a year ago, when I first started thinking about starting this blog, so this was a

testing project, and also necessary since I have a tattoo on my arm, that my grandma shouldn’t see ūüėČ don’t tell my grandma about it, so I thought about making a wide long-sleeve that I can wear in summer, but would not sweat to much. I hope warm weather is starting soon again;) and I will make some more variations of it for this year;) So I hope you like it! Its very easy to do, this one is of knit, so you should use a serger, I will upload a variation soon, how I did one out of jersey, if you don’t have a overlock-machine, better stay with jersey because it doesn’t build runs so easy.

Recipe 

Ingredients

 1 m knit fabric

 0.5m jersey in a fitting color, or about 2m waistband

some similar shirt for the pattern 

sewing thread

serger, pins, paper shears, tailor shears, set square, paper (I use paper table-cloth, because its cheap and easy to use) and pen

Pattern

Put the top on the paper, mine was smoked so I stretched it a little

and fold the sleeves inside at the seams, and draw all around

redraw the lines with a set square and draw a line in the middle

use the middle line to even out the neckline

thats how the part looks for now

next draw the sleeve on paper, stretched again

then draw the sleeve a longer (mine had to be over to elbow)

finished sleeve

I made the neckline a little lower

measure that the seams at top and sleeve are the same length

then add seam allowance and cut both parts

for me the front/back-part looked a little small, so I measure it and noticed it really was less then half of the chest-circumference

draw the part on paper again and add to each side, 1/4 of the cm still needed

measure the sleeve-seam again and make sure its the same length, if necessary also add some cm to the side-seams of the sleeves

my new parts, and the cut them

Cutting

then fold the knit and leave it a little, to make sure it isn’t stretched, and put the parts on the fabric, the side-seams need to be parallel to fold and selvages, also with bigger knits you should cut the parts all in the same direction

pin the rest of the fabric to make sure it stays that way when you start cutting

cut the parts and place the sleeve part on the pinned fabric and cut again, since you need 2 parts for each sleeve

Sewing

pin the side-seams of the front/back

also pin the side-seams of the sleeves

and sew them with a serger or another good overlocking-stitch

then turn the right side of the sleeves out and pin them to the bodice

and sew with serger, starts looking like a long-sleeve huh?

measure around your neckline

cut a strip about 6 cm wide, twice the width you want at the neck-hole later plus 2 cm seam-allowance, the length should be your measurement of the neckline minus 2-4 cm

fold the length in the middle, right side on right side,  pin and sew

then fold the width in the middle, right side outside this time

start with the seam and pin it to a side-seam of one sleeve, to the right side of the neckline

pin the jersey all around to the top, slightly stretched

and sew with serger

next up: cuffing the sleeves, I used the same width as for the neckline

cut them in your wished length, circumference of your arm or wider, I made it a little wider then my arm, fold false side out again, pin and sew

fold the cuffs with right side out and pin them to the sleeves, even though you stretch the fabric it is probably not possible to not fold the fabric, try to divide the fabric equally all over the cuffs

mine looked like this at this moment

next you make your waistband, mine is wider then cuffs and neckline, about 16 cm so 7cm width after sewing, the length should be your waist, or wider if you want it to be more loose

fold the length in the middle with false side out and sew it into a ring, then fold  the width, right side out and pin to the hem, start with the side-seams to even out the fabric, because the hem is longer then the waistline, pin the waistband to the hem and sew it, stretch the waistband while sewing

Finished 

I hope this idea inspires you to do your own, maybe altering the pattern a little ūüėČ for all without a serger, I’ll upload within the next seven days an alteration which I made only with zigzag.

All the best

your TailorFairy

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