winter coat part 1: pattern and cutting

Heyhey,

I just did a cutting marathon, after the moose things yesterday the coat today (well I will cut the lining another day, I just aint a fan of cutting ;)) and I ruined my fingernail again. Does anyone else has that problem? When I get all those pins into the fabric laying on a table.. or the ground (both varaitions my back really hates, a high table would be better, well you cant have everything huh?)… well anyhow, when pinning a pattern to a fabric my fingernail on my right index finger breaks… possibly because I use it to push the pin up again, well enough of my poor fingernails 🙂 The thick coat fabric is cut and I hope when I go to cut the lining my fingernails will be more resistent 😉

So I did a short tutorial for everyone, who wants to do a jacket like this, how to do the cape, I hope that is helpful. If you need more tutorials about the patterns please let me know!

I copied the pattern parts out of the pattern sheet of the burda magazine 08/2007

 the bodice parts I made about 26 cm longer, so its more of a coat then a jacket

when using loden like me, you need to cut all parts in the same direction, so every part looks like the same color later

thats the rest of the pattern pieces, same direction as the others

be sure you cut the collar stand 2 times in fold

same as the collar

“when I grow up I wanna be a coat”

Now some tips how to construct a cape to a jacket-pattern you have:

you need the front, back and sleeve of the jacket you gonna change

draw a line from the highest point of the sleeve down to the hem

mark 8-10 cm down and go 1-2cm to each side and draw curves

cut the sleeve in half and put the back part of the sleeve at the mark on the back-part, top point of the sleeve at shoulder point, draw around until elbow and waist

and you have your first cape part, split the back part into 2 if you want a similar look as mine, you can keep it in one piece as well 😉

also draw a line in the front half the width you want your middle section with 2 button lines to be

cut it

then place the front-sleeve on the mark of the front-part and top of the sleeve at the shoulder of the front, draw around until waist and elbow and you have your front cape

then add the same width you cut of the centre front again

and your parts are finished 😉

you also gonna need a collar stand, a collar, pockets, pocket flap, belt, facing of the back-neck-hole, facing of the centre front, bias binding for the arm holes and shoulder bar. If you need any advice about them, please let me know!

Well I hope you all gonna sew along a warm and cosy winter cape-coat 😉

keep sewing and smiling

your TailorFairy

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