long, wide, winter skirt

I did that skirt in the middle of july, because it was really cold in Berlin. I used loden, thats a woolen material you often see used in wintercoats. Loden has little hairs standing out of the fabric, thats why its very important you cut every template of the pattern in the same direction or the parts can look different in color and appearance.



1.3 m Loden

(or any other material you wanna use, my skirtlength is about 0.6 m, if your skirt is shorter you need less material)

0.4 m jersey

(for the waistband, or any other elastic material)

thread fitting the color of your fabric

wide elastic

(as long as your waistband girth is supposed to be on your finished garment)

paper for the pattern

(I use packing paper or paper-table-cloth)

and of course: sewing machine, pins, scissors and a pen (look those up in the “what you need”- section

The pattern

You start with paper shears, set square, paper and pen and make your pattern.

First you mark the edge of the paper as your later fabric

crease/fold line

then you go in a right angle and 1/4 of the length of your hip girth

now the next right angle and a line as long as your wished skirt length (from hip to end of skirt) mine is 0.6 m

and then a last right angle to get back to your fold line

then divide your pattern in 4 equally wide parts

and cut those lines

glue the first part on and mark an angle of 20° (if you want it less or more wide, take a bigger or smaller angle), glue the next part on and mark the next 20° angle and so on

then connect the part with lines and also draw your seam allowance all around (except at the fold line)

cut it and you have your finished pattern for this skirt

The Cutting

put your pattern on your folded fabric right at the fold line, pin it down and cut it

then you put it on the fabric again, if you have hairs on the fabric, or motives you put it in the same directions as the first one, if not it doesn’t matter, but put it at the fold again

cut it

now you should have two parts like this, when they are not longer folded

The Sewing

pin the side seams together (templates face-to-face) and the sew them considering your seam allowance (don’t forget to secure your seam by doing some stitches forth and back and beginning and end of each seam)

now you need your jersey or other elastic material, mark twice the wide you want your later waistband to have, cut it and also cut it in the length you want your waistband to have plus some seam allowance on each end, mine is a little bit below the waist and 14 cm wide, also cut the same length of your wide elastic

 sew it with zigzag into a circle, this it what it looks like from the right side,  the elastic needs to be in a circle to, but here you should put the seam allowances over each other, not face-to-face, so you will not have a big bump in your circle and sew it over sometimes with zigzag

remember to sew the jersey 2 times with zigzag, this it what it looks like from the left side (like shown in the video to make sure the seam wont rip apart)

fold the waistband in the middle and put the elastic-ring right at the fold and pin it down, close to the elastic, so it will stay at the fold

do zigzag-stitching all around to make sure the elastic stay where it is, but be careful not to get any stitches in the elastic

pin the waistband to the skirt and be sure you divide the more width the skirt has equally onto the waistband, stretch the waistband to know how much skirt-width you can sew on some cm of the waistband

sew it with zigzag and stretch the waistband while sewing so there aren’t any folds in either fabric

fold the seam allowance up and sew it from the right side once more with zigzag so the seam wont rip apart easily

pin the hem allowance inward
and sew the hem with zigzag-stitching so you have the same appearance on all seen seams (only the side seams are done with a straight line, because the Loden isn’t elastic, if you use an elastic material, you should do the side seams with zigzag, too, to keep the fabric elastic in the seams)
So thats what my skirt looks like finished, my puppet isn’t as tall at me, so for me the skirt is 10 cm over my knees.
I hope you had fun doing this skirt with me, or your own variation of it, I would like to see it. Soon I will post my next project: a shorter skirt with a funny print on it.
If you have any questions about this skirt, write me an email or a comment and I will try my best to explain it better soon. I am just starting and still have a lot to learn about how to explain sewing best.
All the best
your TailorFairy


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