Jacket Part1: Pattern


so when I let you vote what tutorial I should do next you voted for a dress, which I already did (link) and second place: a jacket. So a jacket is a big project, especially with lining, so I decided to split it up in parts, this way you can sew it along with me if you like. Ill get you new parts at least once a week. With this one I decided for a old burda-patternthis one is no. 131 of burda magazine 1/2005. Maybe you pick an similar jacket, but even if yours is different lots of the things I show you with this jacket will apply to yours as well. and if there are any troubles with your jacket, that I dont explain with this one are most welcome, and I do my very best to answer them.

So first I copied the parts that are on the pattern-sheet:

and added seam allowance all around. If you want to know how I copy patterns of a pattern sheet you can vote here for a tutorial.

additionally I needed to construct the cuff-part myself, according to the measurements in the instruction part.

if you have a lapel at your jacket, you always need a facing for that, so your wrong fabric side wont be seen. Thats what you need the middle-front part for.

normally the facing-line is given in the pattern, if not mark a line, about 4 cm away from the centre front and the neck and cut the part into two.

draw them on another paper, separately and add seam allowance to the cut line, then tape your original part back together. Then cut your new parts. The one with the lapel is the facing and need to be cut in your fabric, the other one is a lining part, if you like your jacket to be lined.

Mostly you can use your normal parts for the lining, but there are a lot seams in the back and for the lining I wanted that to be much simpler:

so I took my back-parts

and pinned the two end points together, consider the seam allowance, pin it together like its sewn later, as you might see its overlapping a little more in the middle, dont worry about that, we get some additional fabric in the pattern later, so you will be able to move just fine.

then pin the shoulder part to it. here you start at the centre back seam and try to pin it seam on seam as far as you can and still lay it flat. If you have some additional space in your armhole that will be fine

draw it on another paper

now lay the facing on the pattern and draw a line

add twice your seam allowance to that new neckline and 2 cm to the centre-back-fold, this will be a pleat to give you room to move in your jacket

this is what my additional parts look like.

Burda says I gonna need 1.5 m  of fabric for the jacket, since I wont to fully line it, the necessary amount of lining will be about the same.

I think I will be doing the jacket out of 2 different kinds of fabric, so be curious for Part2: Cutting <coming soon>


keep sewing and smiling


your TailorFairy


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