I finally got back to working on the jacket. You can find the first parts here: part1, part2 and part3
last I pinned a sewed the facing all around
now that I am sure which side will be the lower side, I cut back the corner
I also cut of the corners and cut into the seam allowance around the neckline
then I turned the facing inside
for knowing how to change the pattern for the lining I marked my hem allowance of 3 cm
then folded it up, at that edge my lining would now be twice the hem allowance shorter: 6cm
but I need my normal seam allowance of 1cm twice, one time going down, getting sewed and the rest being the real seam allowance, so only 4cm shorter
then I added 1.5 cm for movement, so my lining needed to be 2.5cm shorter then the outside-pattern-pieces.
the formula again: 2 times the hem allowance minus twice the seam allowance minus 1.5 – 2 cm for movement equals the measurement you have to shorten your pattern pieces to become lining pieces
the front part needed to be copied onto another paper
and made shorter, since the facing already covers part of it on the inside
I added seam allowance to the new line and cut of 2.5cm at the hem
I decided not do new pattern pieces when not needed, but just marked the 2.5cm at the hem of my sleeve parts
and folded them up… I sometimes can be a little lazy
I also folded at side-part and lower back-part, and the upper front and back parts are just lining parts already part of the burda pattern. So thats what my lining pattern looks like.
I hope this was helpful for you and understandable. If you have any question do not hesitate to ask and I will try to explain it better. Or do you have an easier or faster way? I would be glad to learn new tricks!
keep sewing and smiling
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