how to sew… the blouse #109 of burda 7/15: pattern and cutting

Heyhey,

thank you all for taking part in the vote for the patterns of burda 7/15, the winner is blouse #109:

DSCF7214 DSCF7208

I will alterate it a little, by doing only one ruffle from the waist down, but as long as both would be together. Burda says that you need 2.5 m (almost 3 yards) for this, so 3 yards I ordered and then noticed they planned to cut the blouse in a right angle to the grain line and I planned to cut it with the grain (just looks better with my print) and I even used a little less then 2 yards, with 54” wide fabric. (1.7m with 1.4m wide fabric) so you can all learn from my mistakes and if you want to cut it with the grain, buy less fabric. 😉

Since my last burda patterns all turned out to be a little wide I decided to go one size down. But when I checked the pattern I noticed it might still turn out wide, so I went 2 sizes down. just not at the side seams of the front, just because my D-Cups need some more fabric as normally planned in patterns. And I still can make it tighter, if I did not need it.

DSCF7382when I copied the patterns pieces onto paper, I had to do the front sleeve a size bigger under the arm as well, to fit with my bigger size in the front at the side seams

DSCF7383when I copied all, or constructed as said in the pattern and added seam allowance all around I cut the paper pattern pieces

DSCF7384my back parts, I folded the ruffle pattern to show the proportions, since all patterns as just half of the back

DSCF7385and my front parts

DSCF7386when I looked how much ruffles there going to be, I decided its to much for me feeling comfortable in it, so I measured how many cm are to much, and took the half of that

DSCF7387then drew lines to split the ruffle-part into 4 equally sized stripes

DSCF7388then took my number from above and divided that by 8 and thats what I marked on the sides and to both sides at the new lines

DSCF7389then I cut it away at the side and taped my darts together

DSCF7390less ruffles on top, but still swinging at the hem 🙂

DSCF7391then I placed all my pattern pieces on my fabric. Since I have a print with a direction, I had to consider that as well the grain line.

DSCF7392then pinned them all as close as I could together, so I wouldn’t waste any fabric and cut all pattern parts

DSCF7393at the markings in the pattern I cut into the seam allowance

DSCF7394the darts I pinned in place

DSCF7395cut in and folded open

DSCF7396then drew the lines on the fabric, because I cut it wrong side out

DSCF7397and copied that to the other piece

DSCF7398my blouse in pieces

When I sorted through the pictures I noticed I forgot to make a picture of my fun print I am using for this, so I guess I have to leave you curious. I only can tell that much: I will love to wear this blouse in winter, just because its so summer-y.

Do you have any questions about my process and project so far? Do not hesitate to ask!

First sewing steps will be uploaded next weekend.

keep sewing and smiling

your TailorFairy

 

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