how to sew… the blouse #109 of burda 7/15: pattern and cutting


thank you all for taking part in the vote for the patterns of burda 7/15, the winner is blouse #109:

DSCF7214 DSCF7208

I will alterate it a little, by doing only one ruffle from the waist down, but as long as both would be together. Burda says that you need 2.5 m (almost 3 yards) for this, so 3 yards I ordered and then noticed they planned to cut the blouse in a right angle to the grain line and I planned to cut it with the grain (just looks better with my print) and I even used a little less then 2 yards, with 54” wide fabric. (1.7m with 1.4m wide fabric) so you can all learn from my mistakes and if you want to cut it with the grain, buy less fabric. 😉

Since my last burda patterns all turned out to be a little wide I decided to go one size down. But when I checked the pattern I noticed it might still turn out wide, so I went 2 sizes down. just not at the side seams of the front, just because my D-Cups need some more fabric as normally planned in patterns. And I still can make it tighter, if I did not need it.

DSCF7382when I copied the patterns pieces onto paper, I had to do the front sleeve a size bigger under the arm as well, to fit with my bigger size in the front at the side seams

DSCF7383when I copied all, or constructed as said in the pattern and added seam allowance all around I cut the paper pattern pieces

DSCF7384my back parts, I folded the ruffle pattern to show the proportions, since all patterns as just half of the back

DSCF7385and my front parts

DSCF7386when I looked how much ruffles there going to be, I decided its to much for me feeling comfortable in it, so I measured how many cm are to much, and took the half of that

DSCF7387then drew lines to split the ruffle-part into 4 equally sized stripes

DSCF7388then took my number from above and divided that by 8 and thats what I marked on the sides and to both sides at the new lines

DSCF7389then I cut it away at the side and taped my darts together

DSCF7390less ruffles on top, but still swinging at the hem 🙂

DSCF7391then I placed all my pattern pieces on my fabric. Since I have a print with a direction, I had to consider that as well the grain line.

DSCF7392then pinned them all as close as I could together, so I wouldn’t waste any fabric and cut all pattern parts

DSCF7393at the markings in the pattern I cut into the seam allowance

DSCF7394the darts I pinned in place

DSCF7395cut in and folded open

DSCF7396then drew the lines on the fabric, because I cut it wrong side out

DSCF7397and copied that to the other piece

DSCF7398my blouse in pieces

When I sorted through the pictures I noticed I forgot to make a picture of my fun print I am using for this, so I guess I have to leave you curious. I only can tell that much: I will love to wear this blouse in winter, just because its so summer-y.

Do you have any questions about my process and project so far? Do not hesitate to ask!

First sewing steps will be uploaded next weekend.

keep sewing and smiling

your TailorFairy



  1. I like this blouse and relly like how you reduced the ruffle. When I make this I will do that as well. Thanks for sharing.😃

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