70s dress part 3: sewing darts, zipper, straps and side seams


starts looking like a dress huh? The next steps that take you this far:



first pin the darts we marked last week

sew them and iron them, always remember to secure your seams at beginning and end… I know that sometimes is tricky at the small end of a dart, if it is like this for you, just leave enough thread and make a knot to secure the seam.

then comes the next tricky part: invisible zipper. but dont worry its not as hard as it sounds… I always first put it on the parts to make sure I have it the right way 😉 next I pin it one of the back-parts… be sure the top end of the zipper is really were you want it to be, normally you need to consider the seam allowance, in this pattern I also have the facing included… and the is the top end of the bought zipper not the real top of the zipper it usually stops earlier… if that confuses you, cut that extra fabric of.

sew with a special sewing machine foot for  invisible zippers, the stitches need to get right under the zipper part when you roll it open

sew as close to the end as you can with a open zipper, and pin the other half to the other back-part and sew it

then sew the rest of the centre back, try to start in both endings of the zipper seams

looks pretty invisible: mission accomplished

you notice something about it?

I forgot to overedge the edges, and since this is woven cotton, serging is necessary, so I did it later, but its a lot trickier that way, so learn from my mistakes and do it before putting the zipper in 😉

next fold the seam allowances at the neck-hole and the facing over and iron … at front and back, make sure the ends are the same at the zipper;)

also do the same with the facing at the strap-part, also fold the seam allowance inside at the pointy end, and iron all to keep it in place

sew all facings, at straps, front and back

then pin the pointy ends to the markings at the front part. also fold the seam allowance double at the other end and pin it to the back

sew them, to make it look cleaner I used 2 seam at the back, and you can also see my facing-seam. as you can see my pointy end is a a little frayed, if anyone of you gets it down without fraying please tell me your trick, but luckily you can only see it when you get really close. So probably no one will notice, or remember better to get slapped because he got so close to my chest 😉

next up: pin the side seams

sew them and then use the serger to prevent fraying

starts looking like a dress 🙂

next tuesday: sleeves and hem, meaning it will most likely get finished next week, so stay tuned!

Any questions are most welcome! Did you hit any problem with your dress?

keep sewing and smiling

your TailorFairy 


  1. […] I left the part open where the zipper was going to. I wanted to use a normal zipper like in the maxi skirt, but the only one at home in the right color I had was an invisible one, so I used that one, a tutorial for a invisible zipper can be found here. […]

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